Cradocks Retreat Darran's climbing

New Zealand Alpine Rock | Darran Mountains Climbing

Darran Mountains multi-pitch New Zealand alpine rock climbing. Super classic alpine rock routes including the North Buttress of Sabre Peak. The Darrans offer multi-pitch alpine rock routes and world class steep and exposed classic alpine rock ridge lines. These alpine rock routes are sought after New Zealand rock climbing classics with climbers coming to from all over the world to experience the climbing in Fiordland.

There is something for every level of climbing ability and challenge. The North Buttress of Sabre (grade 16) is one of the Southern Alps most classic alpine rock routes. The Northeast face of Moirs Mate offers classic routes like the Bowen-Allan Corner (grade 17) or Lucky Strike (grade 21). The East Ridge of Talbot (grade 17) is a three star route (my personal favorite) that can be climbed in a single day from Homer Hut. The possibilities are endless!

North Buttress of Sabre Peak

The North Buttress of Sabre (grade 16) is one of the Southern Alps most classic alpine rock routes and described as "the best rock route for its grade in the country. 500m of seriously exposed climbing" (NZAC Darran Mountains an alpine and rock climbing guide by Craig Jefferies). On this 5 day trip we only guide the route at a 1:1 ratio.

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One of NZ's best alpine rock routes. North Buttress Sabre Peak

Macpherson-Talbot Traverse

The Macpherson-Talbot traverse is one of the best single day alpine trips in the country. Starting from the valley floor the route ascends to Homer Saddle with spectacular views of Fiordland and the Darran Mountains. From here the route then climbs the spectacular North Ridge of Macpherson. From the summit of Macpherson it is then possible to take in a second summit for the day, Mt Talbot, before descending to Gertrude Saddle. This is a great day out and a classic Darrans climb.

Climber on Macpherson Talbot Traverse Darran Mountains

Climber on Macpherson Talbot Traverse Darran Mountains

Bowen Allan Corner

The Bowen Allan Corner is a Darrans classic situated on the West Face of Moirs Mate. The route is accessed from hiking to Homer Saddle and then following the very exposed ridgeline to the Moir area. The relatively close proximity to Homer hut means that it is possible to climb the Bowen Allan Corner within a single day from the hut.

Diamond & West Face Moirs Mate Routes

Moirs Mate is home to a number of classic rock routes on high quality granite rock. The routes are accessed from hiking to Homer Saddle and then following a very exposed ridgeline to the Moir area. The relatively close proximity to Homer hut means that it is possible to climb the routes within a single day from the hut. The modern classics routes on this face include Lucky Strike, Finders Keepers, and Shot in the Dark.

Climber on the west face of Moirs Mate

Climber on the west face of Moirs Mate (photo cedit Paul Rogers)

East Ridge Mt Talbot

The East Ridge of Talbot (grade 17) is a three star route (my personal favorite) that can be climbed in a single day from Homer Hut. The routes offers sustained ridge climbing on solid granite with incredible views topping out on the summit of Mt Talbot before descending back down into the Gertrude valley.

Price

Prices are per person and in NZ dollars.

Days

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5
$4,000
$2,400
n/a
n/a
6
$4,700
$2,800
n/a
n/a
7
$5,400
$3,250
n/a
n/a
Map 2014

Optional

Season

January - March

The Darran Mountains climbing season runs from January through until the end of March. By January the rock routes are free from snow, this also allows us to take advantage of the more settled summer weather in the Fiordland area.

Whats Included

The price of the program includes

  • Guide fees
  • Technical equipment hire
  • Meals and snacks
  • Ground transport
  • Group equipment
  • Department of Conservation concession fees

The price of the program excludes

  • Personal equipment & clothing
  • Helicopter access fees if required

More Information

detailed trip notesequipment listFAQ